On the heels of a life-altering trip to Ghana, West Africa, where they fell in love with African fashion and textiles, Cindy Gaston and Edna Bissoon are pleased to launch HEMMA, a collection of luxury womenswear that incorporates the same, traditional techniques that have been used to weave fabrics for African nobility for centuries. HEMMA affords each client an opportunity to dress with undeniable contemporary style while indulging in the textures and richness of royalty. The name HEMMA derives from the word “ohemma,” meaning queen in the Twi language of Ghana.

About the Hemma Collection

“Hemma garments are inspired by a melding of Western and West African designs, using a luxe fabric that encourages women to feel confident about their bodies. The premiere collection consists of very classic styles that can be easily incorporated into your wardrobe and worn as separates,” explains Cindy Gaston. “Our initial offering includes two-piece suits, day dresses, corsets, and cocktail suiting. We draw our inspiration from many places, with a particular admiration for labels such as Diane Von Furstenberg and Chanel. Like these amazing collections, Hemma will be known for always making a powerful statement and creating timeless garments.”

The inspiration for Hemma

In the spring of 2007, partners Cindy Gaston and Edna Bissoon studied abroad in Ghana, West Africa. While Cindy, pursued a career in law, and Edna, medicine, they also independently designed. The pair was inspired by African fashion and textiles, in particular intricately hand-woven Kente. Drawing from its rich history, they began incorporating Kente into their designs. At the same time, they were dedicated to volunteering as teachers at La Yahoushua, a local middle school. Edna Bissoon expounds on their African experience. “The people of Ghana were more welcoming than we could have expected. Their accepting nature and generosity allowed us to gain an intimate look into this rich history and culture, which has provided us with boundless inspiration.” She adds, “The culture and locals prescribe that you live life completely awake to the beauty and opportunity surrounding you—Hemma emerged from this awakening and strives to spread this message to each client.”

Philanthropic efforts continue

As they bring Hemma to the world, Cindy Gaston and Edna Bissoon also nurture their passion for education. 5% of Hemma sales will be donated to La Yahoushua middle school in Ghana, the very place where the designers built lasting relationships with students, and were inspired to create the Hemma collection.

About Kente

The origin of Kente cloth has a long history in Ghana dating back to the 17th century during Chief Akenten’s reign. At that time, the caravan trade routes of the Sahara were flourishing with the exchange of goods including dyed silks from the East.  Impressed by the textile, he moved to develop the Kente band weaving system for the royal class.  Overtime, the technique of weaving Kente has become extremely specialized, so much so that each color and pattern has its own meaning. All of the Kente used by Hemma is authentically created with the same techniques established centuries ago, including the weaving of the patterns still done by eye on handmade wooden looms. The fabric is so intricate that it takes approximately 1-2 months to weave 3 yards, enough for a size zero suit in our collection.  Traditionally, the intricately woven Kente was the designated attire for the heads of state and their families but occasionally served as gifts for foreign rulers.  Kente was previously only worn to special ceremonies and events and is still worn by royalty today. Hemma strives to bring Kente to the public and make all of our clients feel just as luxurious.

On Sunday September 13, at 6 PM at The Scandinavia House 58 Park Avenue in New York City. Karen Sabag will show her Spring 2010 evening gown collection. This season she draws her inspiration from the elegant narrow streets and walls in Barcelona. Karen  has captured the brilliance of the marble and stones in the street, using natural colors and some pastels of light pink, mint green, with accents of silver and gold “My gowns this season are sexy and fun yet elegant at the same time.” Karen said.

As in all her collections Ms. Sabag uses only the finest fabrics, many of the gowns are made of 100% Italian and French Solstice lace. They are intricately worked with crochet, embroideries, and or embellished with fine hand beading. Many of the creations are adorned with Swarovski crystal or pearls and some are delicately intertwined in metallic silver or gold threads. A signature of a Karen Sabag bridal gown is corsetry. Her hand worked corsets add a glamorous sultry component to a woman’s body by putting emphasis in the right places.

In 2007 while still an undergraduate at FIT Karen won the prestigious first prize in The Kleinfeld-FIT Bridal Contest. She was competing against 800 other entrants. She also won best in show at The Supima Fashion Competition for Emerging Designers in January. Her winning design was an exquisite wedding gown made of Albini shirting. The fabric company was so impressed that they have taken the gown to Milan to exhibit at their fabric shows.

In October she will unveil her 2010 Bridal Collection at The Intercontinental Hotel as one of the participants in The Wedding Channel Bridal Couture Show.

You can purchase her gowns at her store on Ocean Parkway Brooklyn. Her bridal gowns are also available at Kleinfeld Bridal Salon in New York City.

One of the latest fly by night fashion trends is the new armored denim jeans. You may have seen this on such celebs such as Victoria Beckham or Beyonce, and I am sure that come this fall we will see even more of them. The jeans feature metal plating on the shins, knees, and sometimes thighs. Personally, I am not a fan and predict that by next year, we will be looking back on these as one of those yearly fashion faux pas. Just remember not to wear them when trying to get on a plane, otherwise you might be spending a little bit more time at the security checkpoint then you may like to!

The Lovely Katie Holmes is making her entrance to the wonderful world of fashion with her own clothing line. While currently working on her new movie, Katie plans on releasing her clothing line later this year at Maxfield stores.Teaming up with her stylist Jeanne Yang, Katie is making a premier line of clothes for Women and Children. Well, I personally look forward to seeing what Katie has to offer the Fashion World.

For any body who is or wants to be a fashionista, we are all aware of Vogue’s legendary September Issue. This is the Coup De Gra of Fashion, the high light issue of the year for Vogue and Fashion Magazines everywhere. Well, now the process, work, and hours that go into making this famed issue is now going to be on the silver screen. Titled The September Issue, the movie takes an indepth look with unparalled coverage of Anna Wintour and her iconic magazine, more specifically The September Issue. I, as well as many others, will be looking very forward to seeing this movie, which is being released on August 28th. See you at the theatre! Click Here to see a preview!

A mid-summer cocktail party was held last night at the upper East Side home of decorator Charlotte Moss. This party kicked off the fundraising drive that culminates in the annual Couture Council luncheon where Dries Van Noten will make a rare trip to New York to receive the 2009 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion.

Over a hundred people showed up on a warm and muggy night. A lot a familiar faces were out in the garden enjoying cocktails. They included Ralph Rucci, Hamish Bowles, Victor de Souza, Nanette Lepore, David Chu, Christian Cota, Somers Farkas, Amy Fine Collins, Cece Cord, Arnold Scaasi, to name just a few. And quite a number of photographers were on hand, including Bill Cunningham and Patrick McMullan to record the event.

Co-hosts for the evening was FIT museum director Dr. Valerie Steele and deputy director Patricia Mears. We also ran into Charles B. From, the exhibition designer responsible for setting up the museum’s exhibitions and who we interviewed for our Masters of Fashion series.

The Couture Council is a membership group of fashion enthusiasts that helps support the exhibitions and programs of The Museum at FIT, a specialized museum of fashion. Previous recipients of the Couture Council Artistry of Fashion Award are Isabel Toledo in 2008 (a prescient choice made before Michelle Obama selected Toledo’s design to wear on Inauguration Day), Alber Elbaz of Lanvin in 2007, and Ralph Rucci, the recipient of the first award in 2006.

Currently on exhibition at The Museum at FIT, Isabel Toledo: Fashion from the Inside Out, a mid-career retrospective displaying approximately 70 iconic looks from the mid- 1980s to the present, including the ensemble worn by First Lady Michelle Obama on Inauguration Day. Also on exhibition, Fashion & Politics, a chronological exploration of over 200 years of politics as expressed through fashion.

Summer 2009 breezes in just in time to lift the dark cloud of despair that has been hanging heavily overhead for the last several months. Right now, we all need a recess from the recession, a summer vacation, a new beginning. Or, we could just re-visit the past when things were happier and more prosperous. Fluorescent hues, a la Stephen Sprouse, are pioneering an eighties revival. Neon colors have saturated the fashion world with no intention of stopping in the near future. Remember the days of football player-like jackets? Well, they‚re coming back! The shoulder has been the focal point on the runway for the last couple of seasons and we‚re seeing it manipulated in a variety of ways. Strong shoulders, whether they‚re achieved with padding, cutouts, asymmetry, shirring in sleeve caps, pleating, draping, etc., are one of the most significant features of the Spring/Summer season.

With a new President in office America is ready to embrace change. It‚s not just that Barack Obama is the first African-American President elected, but also the fact that he represents a new point of view. Politics play an important role in fashion and this season is no exception. Influences from all over the world are setting trends ranging from elaborate embellishments, ethnic prints/motifs and tribalistic jewelry. Textured natural fabrics such as linen, silk and cotton in neutral tones as well as warm saturated colors are key. Reptile skin dominates and Summer ‚09 is overwhelmingly animal friendly in terms of print.

The return to American idealism is perhaps the biggest trend occurring as of late. Because we know that nothing can change overnight and that „Made in USA‰ may take a while to come back (at least in apparel), we choose to reminisce about times gone by. Feathers, fringe and turquoise compliment buffalo checks, plaid and Navajo motifs. Cowboy and other styles of rugged ankle boots make a strong statement and, as always, denim rules. The Bohemian style lingers on, but in a more elegant way this Summer. Maxi-dresses are one of the season‚s most important silhouettes, while the mini-skirt is still present. Watercolor, floral, medallion and paisley prints decorate chiffon, jersey and voile. Ornamental touches of crochet, lace, eyelet and other open work fabrics add dimension.

Wall Street may have crashed and burned recently, but the market has bounced back, in a sense, emerging in fashion. Clean sharp lines materialize into tailored pieces while, on the flip side, a wave of feminism is washing over the fashion industry providing a balance between the masculine and feminine. As a key component of the season, trousers have never been more diverse. Skinny flat front pants still stand strong, but a new regime of wider leg silhouettes are marching in with higher waists, pleats and yoke treatments. They come in all lengths ranging from full, to cropped, to shorts. In fact, shorts have exploded as a category and are available in a vast array of shapes and styles. On the opposite end of the spectrum, delicate fabrics in cosmetic colors (or non-colors) such as nude, buff, porcelain, blush and Champagne evoke femininity. They are draped and layered creating pretty pieces fit for a princess. Ruffles are unavoidable this season as are rosettes and bows. While Donna Karan has been the „Queen of Drape‰ for years (and let‚s not forget the late greats, Halston & Madame Gres), the Grecian look is becoming increasingly important. Draping and folding tend to camouflage and accentuate where needed, therefore, it‚s no mystery why women gravitate toward these styles. We feel pretty, sexy, self-assured? like a Goddess.

With the message of change permeating the country, there is more focus on America‚s youth. Thanks to the Internet, Facebook, Twitter, IPhones, etc., the younger generation is more cognizant than ever of politics, science, culture and fashion. An awareness of domestic and international issues is infiltrating schools all over the country and prep-school socialites have created a huge buzz in the fashion world. Pretty little fine-gauge cardigans and preppy cropped blazers mingle with short tulip skirts to create refined and sophisticated (but inherently young) ensembles. Plaids are flirty rather than serious and dots and spots in all sizes dance around on a variety of fabrics exuding zest and vitality as if they are personal messengers of hope assuring the world that everything will be OK.

What you just threw out you could wear, is the philosophy that Nancy Judd seems to have. She makes dresses and outfits of junk mail, phone books, plastic bottles, aluminum cans, cassettes, etc. but one of her most recent creations is a real eye catcher and a great statement. Her “Obama” cocktail dress started the day after the election when she started grabbing all the Obama campaign posters she could carry and fabricating them into a dress one poster at a time.

It’s a slinky, body-hugging number crafted from the president’s campaign posters. As the “fabric” winds around the body, from above the knee to below the armpits, white letters form a crisp graphic pattern on a black background and the name “Obama” pops up over and over.

In these dark and gloomy times, no industry is finding themselves “recession proof”, everyone is getting hit, and some are getting hit hard. The Fashion Industry has taken another hit with news that French designer Christian Lacroix brand SNC has launched insolvency proceedings. They said they can not pay their creditors due to the global financial crisis that has hit the luxury goods market. The 125 manned company is seeking protection from its creditors in hope to stay operational.

In 2005 the Christian Lacroix SNC label was bought by the US based, The Falic Group.

The Sao Paulo Fashion Week is coming up in June and every one is looking forward to what it has to offer. However, there is some controversy surroundings the event. The Brazilian newspaper, Folha de Sao Paulo, brought to attention the fact that at last year’s Sao Paulo Fashion Week, out of the 344 models, only 2.3% were black. A government authority opened an investigation on the matter. What resulted from the investigation was a deal. Now, the Sao Paulo Fashion Week is required to have at least 10% of its models be Black or mixed race. Under this new deal whomever fails to meat the 10% standard faces a fine of $120,00 and up.

Outside of Africa, Brazil has the largest population of Blacks and mixed race people. Black Brazilian models have been quoted as saying it is easier to get jobs abroad. Do you think that this is standard being imposed on the Sao Paulo Fashion Week is fair, or right? Please leave opinions in the comments section of the page.